£2,250.00
This 1990s Cartier Tank Must represents an important chapter in Cartier’s late-20th-century watchmaking, when the maison revisited its most iconic design through accessible yet thoughtfully executed models. The Tank Must line, originally conceived in the late 1970s, allowed a broader audience to experience the Tank’s unmistakable geometry while retaining strong design integrity. This example is housed in a vermeil case—sterling silver plated with gold—an approach Cartier used to balance durability, refinement, and affordability. Unlike the more common quartz variants of the period, this watch is fitted with a mechanical movement, aligning it more closely with traditional horology and making it particularly appealing to collectors today.
The deep maroon dial, often referred to as a “spider dial” due to its fine radial cracking, is a defining feature of this watch and a hallmark of ageing seen on certain lacquered Cartier dials from the era. Far from being considered a defect, this patination is now widely appreciated for the individuality it gives each example, ensuring no two are exactly alike. The absence of printed numerals, paired with Cartier’s restrained signature, creates a dramatic and minimalist aesthetic that contrasts strikingly with the gold-toned case. Together, the mechanical movement, richly aged dial, and classic Tank proportions firmly place this watch within the renewed collector interest in 1990s Cartier, a period increasingly recognised for its quiet experimentation and enduring design coherence by Cartier.
| Complications | None |
|---|---|
| Movement | Cartier Cal. 89, Manual wound. |
| Case Size | Medium Tank |
| Delivery | Watch and Box |
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1960s Smiths Deluxe in 9ct – Full Set Box and Papers
