1990s Cartier Must de Tank Medium Mechanical Gem Set

1990s Cartier Must de Tank Medium Mechanical Gem Set - Image 2

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1990s Cartier Must de Tank Medium Mechanical Gem Set

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The Must de Cartier Tank was introduced in the mid-1970s as part of Cartier’s effort to make the classic Tank design accessible to a wider audience while preserving its Parisian refinement. Produced under the “Les Must de Cartier” line, the collection combined traditional craftsmanship with contemporary flair, featuring cases crafted in solid 925 silver with thick gold vermeil plating — or, as seen in this exceptional example, later rhodium-plated for enhanced brilliance and durability. The rich blue lacquer dial, with a subtle glittering finish that catches the light beautifully, epitomised the daring minimalism of the era, forgoing numerals entirely in favour of the Cartier signature and elegant sword-shaped hands. These watches were fitted with high-quality Swiss manual-wind movements, offering the tactile charm of daily winding alongside enduring elegance.

This medium-sized example represents a particularly refined jeweller’s adaptation, distinguished by a blue sapphire-set case — an opulent and costly embellishment that would have been a luxurious upgrade at the time. It retains all the hallmarks that have made the Must de Cartier Tank a design classic: the clean rectangular form inspired by Louis Cartier’s 1917 original, the harmonious proportions that sit gracefully on the wrist, and the cabochon crown that completes its signature silhouette. The inclusion of a Cartier-signed strap and buckle underscores its authenticity and continuity with the maison’s design heritage.

Today, such jeweller-modified vermeil Tanks are admired not only as stylish period pieces but also as expressions of individuality within Cartier’s modern revival — bridging the gap between haute horlogerie and accessible luxury, and reflecting the timeless allure of the Tank across generations.